You can’t go to Argentina and not attend a soccer game, right?  We tried unsuccessfully to get tickets for a couple of different matches on the weekend but did managed to score a couple of tickets to the Independiente vs Fortaleza game last night.  This match is part of the Copa Sudamericana so was an international affair.  Normally fans of the visiting team are not allowed in the stadium but as this was an international cup game, the Brazilian Fortaleza fans were allowed in one section of the stadium.  It was pretty obvious which area was for the visitors…it was behind high chainlink fencing with buffer zones on either end guarded by police.  They take their futbol very seriously here!

Our evening started out with a briefing from our guide…Andy is a lifelong supporter of the diablos rojos (or Red Devils) as the Independiente club is known. He taught us some of the cheers, chants and gestures that all fans are expected to know.  He also filled us in on the insults that are thrown around.  We learned the words for son of a bitch and your mother’s….ahem….what?!?  Warren learned some new Spanish vocabulary that they will not teach you in school!

After our briefing, we went to a local hangout where the Independiente fans gather before the games.  It was in a field near the stadium where you could get some beer and barbecue and meet up with local fans.  Bear in mind that unlike hockey games, alcohol of any kind is forbidden in Argentinian soccer stadiums so the pre-game drink was on! It was rather reminiscent of a high school bush party.

The game itself was pretty exciting but not necessarily for the quality of the futbol. The Independiente side emerged victorious by a 1-0 margin but it was the player antics that made it interesting.  The game was really physical and at one stage, there was quite the brawl on the field.  Two red cards later, players were separated and they were back to playing soccer.  I think we were expecting a bit more drama, diving and magic spray to revive the fallen players but these guys played hard and tough.  I think even my hockey playing husband has a little respect for soccer players now!

To give you a sense of the pre-game fan gathering, check out this video: