After answering a few questions at the border checkpoint between BC and the Yukon, we were deemed Covid-safe and released to roam free in the Yukon.  Our first stop was for supplies, camping permits and fishing licenses in Watson Lake.  This is also where we found the infamous sign post forest.  The story goes something like this….during the construction of the Alaska Highway, a lonely serviceman from the US decided to attach a sign from his hometown to one of the highway mile markers.  From this a tradition was born!  People from all around the world have contributed town signs, street signs, licence plates, home made family trip signs, you name it – the results are a haphazard forest of sign posts stretching a block or so down the highway.  It is pretty cool to spend a little time walking around and seeing where travellers have come from and when they were here.  

From Watson Lake, we travelled along the Alaska Highway with a quick overnight in Teslin then on to visit some dear family members – Warren’s Aunt Pat on the beautiful Takhini River and Cheryl’s Uncle Don on the equally beautiful Marsh Lake.  We managed to coordinate schedules and connect with many cousins too! We had some great family time, shared some fabulous meals and enjoyed a few lakeshore fires until late into the night….the long days can fool you into believing it is much earlier then it really is!

The next leg of the journey took us north on the Klondike Highway with a little out and back along the Silver Trail to Mayo and Keno.  The Klondike is of course famous for its gold rush but there was a significant silver boom in the hills surrounding Keno early in the 20th century as well.  Today Keno has a total population of 24 but has quite a museum and many cool historical buildings.  We checked out a bit of the village then headed up Keno Hill to see the view from the Sign Post.

So, I hate to use the word bucket-list but the next part of the journey is something we have wanted to do for quite a while. I have heard stories and seen so many beautiful photos of the Dempster Highway (although don’t let the name Highway fool you….it is at best bumpy gravel and at worst an extremely muddy, potholed road with sharp rocks that are just waiting to pop your tires)! It was completed in 1979 and is quite decidedly remote. The road goes through the aptly named Tombstone Territorial Park and on to the Arctic Circle before crossing into NWT.  With Covid restricting our entrance into NWT, we had to be content with travelling only the first 450km or so, visiting Tombstone and getting to the Arctic Circle.  What makes this extra special this year is that we crossed the Antarctic Circle in January so now we can say we have been past both!  The journey along the Dempster was truly impressive – the mountains are rugged, dramatic and ever-changing and the valleys stretch for miles.  At a certain point, I think we were both expecting the drive to become mostly rolling, grey tundra but we were surprised by the beautiful and changing landscape the whole way.

Our return to civilization was three nights in Dawson City.  It was the Discovery Day long weekend and there was lots of activity in town.  The infamous Diamond Tooth Gertie’s was finally open after an extended Covid closure and we were surprised to see the line up stretch down the block to get in.  I seem to recall Gertie’s being more popular with the older cruising/bus tour set but the clientele this time was definitely young and looking for a party.  In fact the whole town seemed to be looking for a party – it was a sunny long weekend and there was definitely some pent up Covid fatigue in the air.  We enjoyed a couple of nice hikes, went out for dinner and took in some of the history of the town….tried our hand at gold panning on Bonanza Creek as well but sadly didn’t strike it rich.  I think we might be getting too settled into camper life though – we were both happy to be on the road again!

Our path from Dawson City was a bit different than the way up.  We opted to take the Campbell Highway from Carmacks through Faro back to Watson Lake.  We weren’t entirely sure what to expect road-wise and couldn’t find anyone who had driven it recently so were thankful to discover that almost half of it is paved.  The route took us about 500km through some really beautiful country, including great little campsites at Little Salmon Lake and Frances Lake along the way.  It is hunting season here and we saw quite a number of hunters along the road – and other than a few porcupines, understandably not much wildlife though – it is like they know and make themselves scarce near the roads!

Now back to BC and the road home!